Fog/condensation inside my double glazing — can it be fixed?
One of my double-glazed windows has misted up between the two panes of glass — I can't wipe it because it's inside the sealed unit. Can this be fixed, or does the whole window need replacing?
5 answers
Good news and bad news. The fog means the sealed unit has failed — the edge seal that keeps the gap between the panes dry has broken down, so humid air gets in and condenses. You can't reliably "dry it out" or reseal it; those fixes don't last.
The good news: you replace the glass sealed unit only, not the whole window — the aluminium frame stays. A glazier measures the unit (width × height × thickness, and whether it's clear/low-E/tinted), orders a matching sealed unit, and swaps it into your existing frame. Much cheaper than a new window.
Worth doing beyond looks: a failed unit has lost its insulating gas gap, so it's also letting more heat in. Get a couple of quotes for a like-for-like replacement unit.
Replaced two failed units this way — kept the frames, just new glass. Way cheaper than I feared.
Adding a note since this one comes up seasonally: the reason foggy double glazing can't be wiped clean is that the spacer and desiccant sealed inside the unit have saturated — so it's a whole-unit replacement, which I've broken down in can just the glass unit be replaced. And while you're replacing a sun-facing unit anyway, it's the ideal moment to upgrade to Low-E glass to cut the heat — same labour, better glass.
For anyone whose windows also feel draughty or let heat in (not just fogged): that's a different failure from a fogged sealed unit — it's the perished rubber gaskets/seals around the frame, and there's a newer thread on whether just the window seals can be re-done without new windows. Foggy-between-the-panes = glass-unit job; draughty with cracked rubber = a reseal. Useful to tell them apart before anyone quotes you whole new windows.
One thing that ties into this: when you're choosing new windows, the glazing and frame spec is exactly what governs condensation and heat, not just the opening type. A good insulated double-glazed unit with a thermal-break frame runs warmer on the inside face and resists the surface condensation you get on cheap single glazing or a non-broken frame. There's a thread on choosing aluminium window types — casement vs sliding vs tilt-and-turn — and the glazing to pair with them. (Condensation BETWEEN the panes, as in this thread, is a failed sealed unit and separate — but specifying good sealed units + thermal breaks up front avoids the surface-condensation version.)
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