Thinking of switching our kitchen from a gas hob to induction — what's actually involved in Dubai (power, gas disconnection, is it worth it)?

It's a great upgrade, but treat it as two real jobs plus the hob, not a like-for-like swap.

1. The electrical supply (the big one). An induction hob pulls a lot of power — far more than the ignition socket a gas hob used. It usually needs its own dedicated high-amperage circuit run from the board on the right cable size, and on an older or already-loaded supply an electrician has to check the board and incoming capacity can take it (this is three-phase-territory in bigger villas). Good earthing is non-negotiable. Don't let anyone spur it off an existing kitchen socket circuit.

2. The gas connection. The existing gas hob's supply — piped town gas or a cylinder line — must be safely disconnected and capped off by a competent person, not just pulled out and left. A live, capped-badly gas line behind a new cabinet is exactly what you don't want. If it's central piped gas, that's a proper cap-off job.

3. Pans. Induction only works with ferromagnetic (magnetic-base) pans — a fridge magnet sticking to the base is the quick test. Budget for new pans if yours are aluminium/copper.

Worth it? For most homes, yes: induction is faster, far easier to clean (flat glass, no burners), safer (no flame, cool surface), and precise. The catch is purely whether your electrical supply can take the load — sort that first. Makers like Miele publish the exact circuit and cut-out requirements per model; match the install to those. Getting the circuit, the gas cap-off and the fit done right is the sort of thing to hand to a team that does proper kitchen equipment maintenance and installation rather than piecemeal.